EXERCISE TYPHOON COLD ROCK
EXERCISE DIARY (16-22 Dec 11)
Exercise TYPHOON COLD ROCK was intended mountaineering and climbing exercise based out of Snowdonia National Park for nine members of Typhoon Squadron and one of Thunderer Squadron. The exercise was based from NACMC Tai Newdyddion Lodge, located near Bethesda, Bangor, Wales. From here trips were made to local crags and indoor climbing centres.
a. For participants to gain invaluable log book experience in both rock climbing and mountaineering in preparation for future JSAT courses and qualification.
b. For recently qualified instructors to gain experience in instructing in a challenging environment.
c. To familiarise new members of Typhoon Squadron with the participation and running of an AT exercise.
The objectives of Ex Cold Rock were:
a. For participants to gain 3 days rock climbing experience on a variety of outdoor routes.
b. For participants to gain 2 QMD’s.
c. For newly qualified RCL’s to gain confidence in instructing mixed ability groups
d. For MLT’s to gain experience in leading groups in difficult conditions.
Day 1- 16th Dec
The advance party left Loughborough at 1400. After a difficult journey due to weather and traffic they arrived at NACMC at a similar time to Mid Gillman from Thunderer. The conditions were deemed to poor for the main party to travel in the darkness. After taking over the accommodation, the group went to Tesco’s to shop for the week, before retiring early.
Day 2 -17th Dec
The main party met a 0730 to depart for Bethesda. The advance party used the morning to conduct a recce off the peaks and climbing sites to check conditions and usability for the week.
After a brief lunch when the main party arrived, the instructors gathered for a meeting to discuss the weather conditions and the plan for the week. It was decided to be as flexible as possible and make decisions on a day by day basis. It was decided that the weather was too poor today to climb outdoors and to head indoors to Indy.
At Indy an introduction to climbing, including a safety brief was given by the instructors, complete with demonstrations. The rest of the afternoon was spent either bouldering or top roping under the supervision of the instructors.
Day 3- 18th Dec
Everyone was told to pack for a range of activities, but after a look at the weather forecast it was decided to grab the opportunity to climb outside. After a quick stop at “Eric’s Cafe,” a famous climbing cafe we climbed at Pont Ifan upper tier (Tremadog) for the whole day, finishing with an abseil down the highest point of the crag, needing some courage from some members of the group. In the evening, after a trip to Tesco’s and dinner we had a talk about the climbing that took place out of Eric’s Cafe in the 80’s and the fact that “Eric” himself was the first person to hot air balloon over Everest.
Day 4 -19th Dec
Poor weather forced the group inside today, to the Beacon centre. After a quick warm up, the instructors gave a series of lessons on lead protection placement, anchor construction, rope skills and lead climbing. Practising all of these techniques, including lead climbing with a top rope for added protection took us up to lunch. After lunch we got the chance to talk to Pete Robins, an internationally famous climber. The remainder of the day was a continuation of practising the skills taught in the morning, with people rapidly increasing the grade of climb they were attempting.
Day 5- 20th Dec
It was decided to go to Clogwyn Cyrau for more outdoor climbing. Due to the cold weather, windy conditions and fatigue of the group, the climbing was tough, with everyone having to push themselves to finish the climbs. The strong winds brought in rain shortly after lunch and it was decided to head back to the accommodation. At the accommodation we watched climbing video’s for the rest of the afternoon, while OCdt Elliott and Mid Forse and Burrows cooked a full Christmas dinner.
Day 6- 21st Dec
Poor weather forced a return to the Beacon centre. Everyone had a particular climb or problem in mind that they wanted to complete, notable effort from OCdt Harvey who completed a boulder challenge on his 30th attempt. The rest of the day was spent at the centre, with the group taking a chance to read the centres large collection of climbing magazines from the 80’s onwards in between climbs.
In the evening the accommodation was cleaned ready for handover, before half the group left in the Astra.
Day 7- 22nd Dec
After an early start, the main party handed over the accommodation and then travelled back to Loughborough. After cleaning the van and handing back stores, the group dispersed for Christmas.